Every once in a while I come across a catamaran that has jacklines installed along the side decks. This type of installation is a throwback to monohull offshore racing where dire warnings are given about not using the lifelines for attaching harnesses. What I get from these regulations cum warnings are that lifelines are unsatisfactory on three counts. First, that you must un-clip and re-clip every time you come to a stanchion. Second, that the lifelines are not strong enough and third, that they are too close to the edge of the boat, thus do not give real protection from falling overboard.

The jackline side-deck installations I see, use the same wire and the same fittings as used in the lifelines, vinyl coated wire and swage end fittings. I suggest that if that material is not sufficiently strong for life lines with many attachment points and stanchions to lend both support and shock absorbing quality then how on earth could a single wire of the same material stretched bow to stern be sufficiently strong as a jackline? Especially when considering the angle of pull which multiplies the force against the wire many times?

Lately, there has been considerable movement in this area to flat tape systems. I suppose this has certain advantages but in my opinion, it still does not answer the most important question and that is keeping a person on board and not allowing them to fall overboard in the first place. I understand that there is a chasm of need and usage between the needs of racers and the needs of cruisers; racers, doing things in locations and under conditions cruisers would never attempt. There have been reports of crew almost drowning while being dragged along by their harness/tether/jackline at full boat speed, thus reinforcing my call that the system must be designed for cruiser, as fail-safe as possible, to keep them on board at all costs.

• Should be run inboard,
• Be within easy reach
• When not in use, should not lie on the deck to get underfoot and become an ankle twisting menace.
• Should also be of a material that is strong, resilient, shock absorbing and easy on your hands and feet.
• Should be temporary

I suggest to my readers the following concept for easy to use, sufficiently strong, properly placed jacklines without resorting to expensive tape systems, or worse, those swage end fitting plastic coated wires that always roll under your feet or collect dirt under them on deck.

First, jacklines should be temporary. When not in use or needed, they constitute another annoyance and maintenance item on deck. The perfect jackline materials are right at hand on your boat and those are your dock-lines. When you need jacklines you most likely do not need dock-lines. Therefore, you have the perfect opportunity to do double duty with the equipment and more satisfactory equipment at that.

Next, is placement. With the motion on a monohull, you have the distinct possibility of being tossed overboard by momentum as the boat rolls, corkscrews or plunges through green water. Because of the nature of the motion on a catamaran, those actions are much diminished and the likelihood of a momentum generated overboard launching curtailed. Nevertheless, jacklines are a good safety item to use under extreme conditions or for watch keeping at night..

Fasten one end of the dock line cum jackline to a convenient strong point close enough to your cockpit that you can hook up before you leave its security. If you do not have any, install a heavy duty folding padeye in the best location. The other end of the line should be securely tied using the appropriate knots to a convenient strong point at the center of the bow crossbeam or stem head fitting .

Now that you have a strong secure jackline, you need the best way to connect to it. The best harnesses have attachment lines with three ends, all with carabineer clips. This technique is learned from the day racers. The base clip, clips to the harness and can be released by the wearer in the event he is being held under water, The other two are at the ends of a longer line and a shorter line so that you can clip-unclip from one to the other without risking being un-clipped even momentarily. It also means you can tether yourself between two strong points if need be.

Carabineer clips should be stainless steel and a large size. First for strength, then for ease of use with gloved or cold hands and last so they slide easily along the jackline with a minimum of binding. In recent years, considerable change has occurred and there are many new models that are safer from accidental opening and easier to use, especially with gloved hands. Some sailors are using snap-shackles instead of carabineers because they feel they can be released under load.